by Margejane | Cat Accessories
- Bowls – Ceramic or stainless steel. Do NOT buy plastic bowls as they can harbor bacteria. Before I knew this and used plastic bowls, one of my cats got acne!
$SAVINGS TIP$ — Pet stores are usually way overpriced when it comes to pet bowls. If you have any thrift shops near you see if you can find any nice ceramic or stainless steel bowls, about one cup size, in good condition. Instead of paying $7-$9 for a ceramic bowl liked I used to, I got an great assortment of bowls for 50 to 99 cents each!
Cats only need two bowls. It’s a good idea to have some extra cat bowls on hand so you can have some in use while you wash the others.
- Toys – Every cat or kitten needs toys. Here are some toy ideas to keep your kitty happily occupied.
Boxes – Take a large box and seal 3 sides. Cut an entryway on one side. Line it with a soft blanket or towel. Put a few small toys like catnip mice or balls inside.
Empty Thread Spools – These make great toys for your cat to bat around the house.
Rolled-up Sock –It’s an old sock to you but a great toy for your kitty! Sprinkle some catnip on the sock before rolling it up and watch the fun begin.
Aluminum or Paper Balls – Take some clean unused aluminum foil or scrap paper and roll it into balls for kitty to swat around the house.
CAUTION: NEVER let your cat play with plastic bags. Cats suffocate from plastic bags every year.
A string is fine for kitty to play with as long as he/she is NEVER left unsupervised. If kitty swallows string it can tangle in the intestines and kill him, so put all string away when playtime is over.
- Nail Clippers – A simple inexpensive pet nail clipper works fine. It has a slight concave shape at the bottom of the blade. Just gently press your cat’s paw on the underside in the center and the nails should extend. Clip off the white part of the nail. NEVER clip the pink part which has a vein. If you are a newbie and are nervous about the process, visit your vet and have a vet technician demonstrate the technique for you. There are also videos on YouTube regarding this subject.
- CARRIERS – It’s an absolute must to have a good carrier so your kitty will be safe traveling by any means, not to mention you don’t want to experience the horror of losing your cat.
There are many different types of carriers.
- CARDBOARD – this should only be used if you have no other option, such as when adopting your pet and you haven’t purchased a good carrier yet. Use it once and throw it away.
- CRATE – wire crates are NOT recommended. The cat is exposed on all sides which only adds to his fear because he can’t hide.
- SOFT-SIDED – I’ll admit I’ve used and still own a soft-sided carrier for my small cats. I have spinal problems and find it easier for me to carry it from underneath rather than use the straps. I only use it for a quick trip to the vet and put a seatbelt securely around it when driving. However, I do not recommend them for extended trips (my vet is just a few blocks away.)
- PLASTIC CARRIER – This is the best type of carrier. A quality carrier will last a lifetime, is sturdy, easy to clean, and lets your cat feel secure. When you go to purchase a plastic carrier, please make sure the door to the carrier is easy to open and lock. Be very careful in your choice. Years ago I bought what appeared to be a good quality carrier and my cat escaped from it because the door came off. Thankfully I was able to grab my precious kitty. Personally, I like carriers that also have a door on the roof.
HOW TO GET YOUR CAT USED TO HIS CARRIER
Now that you know which carrier to purchase, you also need to know how to get your cat used to it. Not an easy task! Here’s some information that should help.
Your normally calm cat can go crazy when you try to put him in the carrier. The good news is with a little practice it will be much easier. The first thing to do for a cat who has no crating experience is to take the carrier and remove the door if possible. If not, prop the door open. Put the carrier on the floor. If your house is a cat-only house, put treats all around the carrier in a 3-foot circle, plus some inside the carrier. When all treats are gone, repeat the process, but this time put the treats 2 feet around the carrier and some inside the carrier. Repeat until there’s no circle and all treats are inside the carrier. When your cat goes into the carrier to eat the treats, that’s progress! For the next day or two put some treats at the rear of the carrier.
Next choose a word you will use that your cat can identify as carrier. Bed, condo, anything. Show your cat his favorite treat to get his attention. Show him the treat and keep it near his nose so he can smell it. In a joyful voice use the word you’ve chosen and guide your cat to the carrier. When he’s near the carrier, say about a foot, reward him with the treat. Lavish him with praise. Move him a few feet from his carrier and repeat the process. When he’s okay with coming that close to his carrier, place a treat on the doorway ledge. Lavish more praise and petting on your cat. After that, toss a treat inside and let your cat go get it.
NEXT – Put the door back on the carrier. Repeat the previous exercise so he doesn’t get spooked. If he gets spooked, re-teach to the carrier on command. Things should go more smoothly this time around. Don’t worry if he notices the door, don’t fret. It may take another day or two but this method works.
Once your cat goes into the carrier, quietly close the door and lock it, all the while speaking softly and cheerfully, praising your cat. Throw some treats in the carrier, and then in a few minutes open the carrier door and let him come out if he wants. From then on your cat should go into the carrier without a problem.
by Margejane | Cat Food & Treats, Cat Health
When cats age, warmth, ease and convenience become priorities. There are things you can do to make life comfortable for your aging cat. Conveniently located food bowls and litter boxes are essential.
As cats age nerves and brain cells die off forever, leaving the messages sent from the brain to the body and back taking the long road. Once the message is received the body might not want to do what was requested. As nerve and brain cells die the senses become dull. In turn, vision gets blurry; the sense of smell lessens, as does the hearing. Cats cope with these changes – they really don’t have a choice.
But old doesn’t mean dead. Older cats still like to play, still are affectionate and want your company.
Here are things you can do to make life better for your senior cat.
- Provide water – you cat needs plenty of easily accessible freshwater. Cats are susceptible to kidney and urinary problems, and drinking plenty of water is very helpful in combating these.
- Chubby kitty? – Once your cat reaches the double digits, you should weigh him once a month. If there is any drastic weight change up or down more than 15%, you should contact your vet. If there’s weight loss when there has been no change in diet it may indicate kidney, dental, thyroid or other problems. Get your cat to the vet ASAP.
- Being overweight strains a cat’s entire system and makes it more likely kitty will get diabetes, heart problems, and if he needs surgery it’s more likely there will be surgical complications. You may need to change your cat’s diet. Consult with your veterinarian for recommendations. Get baseline blood workups. It is a good idea to see your vet twice a year.
- Check your cat’s breath – If your cat’s breath is bad it could indicate a real problem – gum disease or infection, a toothache. Check your kitty’s mouth every couple of weeks – look for inflamed swollen gums or foul odor. There could be more problems. If you suspect a problem, please see your veterinarian right away.
The older cat needs more convenient surroundings. Here are some ways you can help.
- Keep water and food bowls on the floor near where he sleeps.
- Always have a nice sleeping spot that is private, warm and cozy.
BOARDING
If at all possible, please do NOT board your senior cat. Boarding is very stressful for any cat but especially stressful for older cats. Even if it is an excellent facility, the stress is still there and in some cases can be enough to cause the senior cat to become very ill, sometimes fatally ill.
A pet sitter is so much better for your cat. Your cat is most comfortable being in his own home. A good pet sitter can offer companionship and affection in your absence. Kitty can sleep on your bed, relax, and be happy. (For information regarding how to find a good pet sitter, please refer to “Cat Sitting” under my article entitled “If your Cat Gets Lost.”)
by Margejane | Cat Health
Losing your cat is truly a horrible experience. What should you do? Speaking from experience – when a cat of mine got out, a trap with yummy food got her back (after first trapping two feral cats!)
Okay, …here’s what to do:
- Make a flyer with a clear photo – put the date lost and where your cat was last seen, plus any markings on your cat. Put several phone numbers on the flyer – your cell, work number, and home phone if you have a landline.
- Contact vets, shelters and police – make sure they all have flyers. Call to check if they have heard anything. Be pleasant and persistent.
- Offer a Reward – A reward is very motivating, so make it a good amount.
- Post your flyers – post flyers everywhere – pet stores, grocery stores, convenience stores, busy intersections, anywhere people go.
- Ask kids to help – you can ask your neighborhood kids to be on the lookout. Give them flyers. Let them know if one of them finds your kitty they’ll be paid a nice reward.
CAT SITTING
It’s very important to find a great and reliable cat sitter for those times you’ll be away. Tasks a cat sitter does include coming to your home at least twice a day, or in some cases stays at your house, feeds your kitty, cleans the litterbox, socializes with the cats, and grooms them.
Other tasks could include taking in the mail, watering your plants, turning lights on and off, setting your alarm, etc. A good sitter is priceless.
There are several ways to find a good cat sitter. Personal recommendations are one way to start. You can also Google “cat sitter services” or “Pet Sitter Services.” Before contacting them check them out with the Better Business Bureau. Contact your vet and other vets in your area – often there are good vet technicians who do pet sitting for extra income.
When interviewing cat sitters, note if the cat likes the sitter or not. Ask questions – Experience – how long have you been pet sitting? Ask for references (from a vet or other pet professional service, plus previous customers.) Are they bonded?
Have a list of specific instructions of what you need done – number of feedings per day, how many litterbox cleanings a day you want, any plants that need watering, mail to pick up, etc.
NOTE: I cannot in good conscience recommend boarding cats unless you absolutely have no other choice. I am not saying there aren’t any good boarding places, because I am sure they are. When we are away we board our dog, but we know they are a good one, and our dog loves to play with the other dogs. However, this is not the case for most cats. It is extremely stressful for cats.
Another reason I say this comes from personal experience. Years ago, I was going on vacation. I wanted a cat sitter for my two cats, but my then-boyfriend refused to let someone into the apartment while we were away. Since it was his apartment, I had no choice. I boarded the cats at a brand new vet clinic near the apartment. I toured the place and found it to be very clean with spacious cages. What could possibly go wrong?
Upon my return home a week later I noticed my male cat, Sam, didn’t seem right. He was sneezing and sniffling, as was my other cat, Pinky. While Pinky was better in a day, it was very different for Sam. He stopped eating and drinking, stopped using the litterbox. He was lying on his back, mouth open and tongue hanging out. I rushed him to the vet’s office where I boarded him. They apologized and told me that all treatment would be free, the least they could do! They also told me that unbeknownst to them, a woman had brought in her four cats for boarding at the same time I did. One of her cats had an upper respiratory infection that spread like wildfire to the other cats.
For a while, it was touch and go. I had to take Sam to the vet every night and force-feed him diluted baby food and water plus medications. Thankfully, Sam recovered.
Bottom line: my personal belief is if you keep your healthy cats at home, they won’t be exposed to sick ones. After that, we had a good vet tech catsit.
![[How To] Giving Your Cat Medication](https://cutekittens.club/wp-content/uploads/2019/09/unnamed.jpg)
by Margejane | Cat Accessories
Giving your cat medication is usually pretty unpleasant. Fortunately, there are methods that can make the process easier.
Giving Your Cat a Pill
Sometimes giving your cat a pill may be as easy as hiding it in a bit of his favorite cat food or a small ball of cream cheese. Pill Pockets is another possible option – it’s a soft treat that is open on one end to put a pill in.
Cats are sometimes too smart for their own good and know you’re up to something they won’t like, and they will be completely uncooperative. In this case, another method needs to be tried. Get a large, thick bath towel. Wrap the kitty up in the towel until only his head is poking out. If you have someone to help you, so much the better, but you can do this on your own. Put the cat bundle on your lap with its head facing away from you. Reach over and using one hand, open your cat’s mouth. Reach over his nose and pressing the lips in, just behind the long fangs in front. Pressing at that point causes the cat to open his mouth.
Now, with your other hand, put the pill down on one side of the tongue. This will make the pill go down better. Once the pill is in his mouth, close his mouth, point the nose upward and stroke his throat until he swallows. If he starts licking his mouth or his nose, that means he’s swallowed. Keep him bundled and wait a few seconds because he may not have swallowed the pill yet and will spit it out.
Another method is what’s known as a pill gun or pill popper. It’s a plastic “plunger” with a rubber tip on the end where you can insert the pill while you keep your fingers out of harm’s way (your kitty’s teeth.) You can get one from your vet and are very inexpensive.
While your cat is securely bundled in a thick towel, insert the pill popper into his mouth. Be sure NOT to put it further than you can see. Once he swallowed the pill, lavish praise on him, give him a treat. Then slowly unwrap and release him. If you’re nervous about doing this, ask your vet to give you a demonstration.
If the pill doesn’t need to be swallowed whole, you can try crushing it and mixing it in food. You can buy a pill crusher or put the pill in between two paper towels and crush it with a hammer. Another option is to crush it with a spoon. Mix it well with your cat’s favorite and most flavorful food, maybe one with some gravy to make it tastier.
How to Give Liquid Medication
Dispensing liquid medication is far more difficult than pills. I have to laugh (although it wasn’t funny at the time) of how my late cat Wally who was as sweet as sugar, let the pink liquid medicine I thought he swallowed come out of his little drooling mouth. I wish I was better informed at the time so I’m happy to share what I have learned since then. Being a foster mom has its perks!
First, get a syringe without a needle from your vet. Spoons don’t work and are very messy – don’t use them. With a syringe, you are able to measure the exact amount of medication required, as well as giving you the ability to dispense a little at a time. Ask your vet to show you how to do this when he gives you the medication.
Wrap kitty in a thick towel the same way you would do if administering a pill. Speak softly to your cat and then reach over his head and place your thumb and index finger behind each of his big canine teeth. Your cat will open his mouth when you apply pressure there. Be 100% ready to insert the tip of the syringe into the corner of his mouth and depress the plunger. Put the syringe down and let your cat close his mouth. Point his head upward and stroke his throat so that he will swallow.
NOTE: Be careful NOT to squirt too much of the medication down your cat’s throat, because he might inhale some, which could potentially cause serious lung problems.
NOTE: Be sure NOT to lift your cat’s head up when giving him the medication – this could cause it to go down his windpipe.
NOTE: If your cat starts coughing and/or panicking, STOP EVERYTHING. Let him cough, let him spit out medication. Once he is over that, try again.
Another way to try giving liquid medication is to put a little on the top of his front paws. Your cat should hopefully lick it off.
How to Apply Topical Medication
Put a dab of margarine or petroleum jelly on each front paw. Licking it off should help your cat to relax. While he’s occupied put the topical medication where it needs to be. If all else fails buy a “cone of shame” for your kitty to wear around his neck. He won’t like wearing it but be assured he’ll get over it once it’s removed. The bottom line is, he’s got to heal.
I hope this information helps you when medicating your kitty. Be sure to consult with your veterinarian before attempting to give your cat medication to ensure you are doing things correctly.
![[How to] Picking the Right Cat](https://cutekittens.club/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/grey-and-white-short-fur-cat-104827.jpg)
by Margejane | Cat Health
So you’ve decided to get a kitten or cat. Congratulations! All cats and kittens are beautiful by their very nature, but it’s very important to know how to choose the right feline for YOU.
In the most ideal situation, kittens stay with their mother and littermates until they are 3-4 months old. Kittens are not born naturally sociable so it’s important that they are socialized in their early months by being lovingly handled and getting used to normal household sounds like a television, vacuum cleaners or little children.
In my experience as a foster mom for kittens, I have fostered litters where kittens have hissed at me and been extremely antisocial. Wrapping them in baby blankets and holding them close to me for extended periods of time has transformed them into sweet, affectionate babies who purr when held. This socialization process gets them ready to be ideal family pets.
When you visit a shelter or a foster’s house, observe your surroundings. It should look and smell clean. If the mother cat is available, go meet her. She has great influence on her babies, if she is sweet and loving, that’s a good indication the kittens will be, too.
When you meet the kittens, it’s a good idea to just observe them at first. Kittens who are naturally attracted to people are the best pets. Happy, socialized kittens will enjoy being handled. Kittens who get panicky and try to jump out of your hands shouldn’t be chosen. Even though that cute little kitten cowering in the corner catches your attention, skip it. I hate to say that because I believe every kitten deserves a loving home, but I feel it’s my responsibility to educate you, my valued readers, on how to choose a kitten or cat who will be sweet and loving – a joy to have in your home.
Make sure you choose a healthy kitten. They are active, have bright clear eyes, a glossy coat, and no nasal discharge. Body build should be lean without being scrawny or potbellied.
If you don’t find your dream kitten your first time out, don’t be discouraged. There are so many darling kittens out there. I highly recommend Petfinder.com. You can enter the type(s) of kittens you might like, plus the area you live in, and Petfinder will come up with photos and bios of kittens plus the names of local animal shelters and rescue groups.
If an adult cat is more to your liking, that’s also a great choice. Adult cats are easier than kittens, because basically what you see is what you get – their personalities are fully formed. One exception is an in-heat or pregnant female, because her personality may change once she’s spayed. Look for a cat who is playful and friendly. Your cat will most likely get more relaxed once they get home because noisy shelters can be stressful.
In closing, just remember – be patient, know what type of cat you want (although you may fall in love with a sweet cat who is totally different than the one you imagined bringing home) and above all, be patient. That great cat is out there for you!
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