by Margejane | Cat Food & Treats, Cat Health
As cat owners, we have the responsibility of keeping our cats happy and healthy.
Being a kind and loving “pet parent” can certainly keep your cat(s) happy. Keeping our cat(s) healthy means being aware of any changes in our cats’ behavior and/or appearance. When we become aware that something is wrong, we take the kitty to our veterinarian, and hopefully, it’s something that can be resolved simply with a prescription (my FREE pet prescription discount card can help save you money on your cat’s prescription medications.)
Sometimes your cat’s condition may be more complicated – for example, a chronic condition such as hyperthyroidism, chronic kidney disease, or FIV.
Traditional medicine plays a very important part in our cats’ lives. What is gaining more acceptance nowadays is naturopathy for pets. Animal naturopathy is an alternative form of healing using the only natural, non-invasive, drug-free methods to prevent and treat illness in animals. In my case, for instance, while I take my cat with chronic kidney disease to a traditional veterinarian, I also will use a naturopathic product to help keep her kidneys stay as strong as possible, as well as a naturopathic “calming” product to help another of my cats who is very nervous and neurotic.
To get the full picture of available treatments for your cat(s), it’s a good idea to discuss your options with both a traditional and naturopathic veterinarian. You can learn more about naturopathic products as seen on My Crazy Cat Ladies.
If you’re interested in chasing a course in healthcare, you may consider applying for this UK health scholarship offered by Swansea University.
by Margejane | Cat Food & Treats, Cat Health
When you care for your cats, you want to be sure you’re doing everything right…sometimes that means taking the kitty to the vet and getting a prescription such as an antibiotic or topical medication. That can get pretty costly…until now. Visit Americasdrugcard.org/Marge, and print out your pet prescription discount card today!! Call or text me at (630)887-6746, or email me at [email protected] for more cards.
But what can you do to help keep your cat healthy, or improve it? We all love our feline friends and want to do all we can to have them with us as long as possible. That’s why I recommend the wonderful all-natural products offered by these two crazy cat ladies. You’ll find everything to help keep your cat healthy, from the powerful immune-boosting FeLeuk Kit to Kitty Kidney Kit, and so much more. Visit the two crazy cat ladies today and help kitty stay happy and healthy!
by Margejane | Cat Accessories
If you need to travel with your cat there are steps you should take to ensure your cat’s safety. This info is regarding traveling by car with your cat.
One of the most important things you must do for a safe trip is to keep your pet cool. In the summer, you need to make sure your car is air-conditioned. Just a few minutes in a hot car can lead to heatstroke or death. If your cat is especially susceptible to getting overheated (for example, Persians because they have long hair and short noses), you should freeze cool packs, wrap them in a thin towel or cloth, and place them in the bottom of the carrier. Keep some extra cool packs in a small ice chest.
NEVER leave your cat alone in your car in the sun or shade for even a few minutes. A cat can get overheated and very sick in only a few minutes.
HAVE A TRAVEL CHECKLIST
- Have your cat’s medical records with you. You should also have a current health certificate and your vet’s phone number. If the trip causes a flareup of a health problem, these documents are crucial.
- Current Photo of your Cat. Heaven forbid kitty gets lost, you need a good photo. Be sure you can make copies if necessary. If your cat has any identifying marks, write them down.
- Disposable Litter Pans – These are a godsend when traveling. Amazon sells a variety of them, some even have the cat litter included. To avoid a mess, use just about ½” litter in the pan – that’s adequate.
- Cat Food – You need to keep your cat on his regular food. A sudden change in diet could cause a bout of diarrhea. Because some areas of the country may not sell your cat’s regular cat food, be sure to pack enough of your cat’s regular cat food.
- Harness – Purchase a proper fitting H Type harness. This is secure and comfy for your cat.
- Cat Carrier – A quality hard plastic carrier is the best suited for travel – sturdy, easy to clean and allow for good air flow.
- Retractable Lead – the smallest size should be best. This works well when you take a break on your trip and want to let your cat get some air. (Be sure to attach the lead with the car doors closed.)
- Water Bowl and Water – A metal bowl and a supply of water bottles, preferably the water he is used to initially (there is a difference!)
IMPORTANT – Make sure your cat is microchipped.
So get everything ready that kitty needs and happy travels!
MOVING
Needless to say, moving is a very stressful experience for humans and even more stressful for your feline companions. By doing a few simple things you can help keep your cat safe and secure during your move.
First, you need a secure room for your cat. During your move doors will be opened constantly, an ideal opportunity for your cat to bolt and run out of the house. To prevent problems, either board kitty (I know I don’t like boarding, do that only if absolutely necessary and only for one night if possible) during the move or set up a secure room for your cat. If you have an extra bathroom, consider putting a soft bed, food and water and a litter box in that room. Put a “DO NOT ENTER” sign on that bathroom’s door and be sure to inform your movers that absolutely no one is to enter that room. It’s also a good idea to keep a radio with either a talk station or soft music on in the bathroom to keep kitty calm, help him sleep and block out some of the outside noise.
Home sweet home – Once you’re in your new home, set up a room just for your cat for about a week. Keep your kitty confined while you’re going in or out while unpacking as well. Spoil your cat to make him happy in his new home, perhaps with treats or his favorite food. He’ll be less inclined to bolt.
Be sure to put a name tag with your new address and phone numbers on your cat’s collar.
by Margejane | Cat Behaviors
The cost of owning a cat for the first-year averages $1,070. So as you can see, having a cat can cost you over $ 1,000 the first year, and well over $500 each additional year. If you have medical expenses or need a pet sitter, plus the cost of food, the costs could be much higher. If you live in a rental apartment, your landlord may charge a pet deposit that may not be refundable.
Am I trying to discourage you from adding a furry feline to your household? Absolutely not. Cats bring so much joy with their companionship and antics. I have five cats, and each has a unique personality and charm.
Two ways to help avoid “pet care panic”:
- Set aside $1,000-$2,000 that you can use for any pet emergencies.
- Comparison shop for your pet supplies
Prior to my being a foster mom for kittens, I worked with physicians for over 20 years as a CMA (certified medical assistant.) I enjoyed helping patients very much. However, what upset me was that some patients had a hard time paying for the prescriptions they needed. I’d wished that I could help patients with their prescription costs.
Now I’m happy to say that thanks to a wonderful company, I can now help both people and their pets save money on their prescriptions. Using a FREE prescription savings card, you can save on prescriptions for you and your pets! You even have the option of using mail order to receive your medications. Use this free card with confidence, it’s the only A+ Better Business Bureau rated card in the industry. Print your free card on www.americasdrugcard.org/marge, or feel free to email me at [email protected].
If you’re a brand new cat owner, congratulations! The right kitten or cat can be a wonderful companion for you. Do you know how to choose the right cat or kitten for you? It’s all here in my next article – “How to Choose the Right Kitten or Cat.” So please read on, my cat-loving friends!
by Margejane | Cat Accessories, Cat Food & Treats, Cat Health
Cats are a common sight in many households. These felines are known to be warm, furry and friendly. Children especially derive joy from having a pet in the home, particularly if it is a cat. However, even within households, cats are exposed to danger. No one would want his or her cat to get hurt, sick, weak or even die (in the most extreme cases). Therefore, it is imperative that you identify, isolate and mitigate the common household dangers cats face. The truism ‘prevention is better than cure” is very appropriate and is definitely applicable in this case.
The fact is anything that has the potential to poison, harm, maim, disfigure, cut, burn, scald or shock a cat or kittens can be and should be classified as a potential danger. Knowledge of these dangers and their mitigation can help save the life of the family cat loved and adored by all, avert unscheduled visits to the vet, cut down on unforeseen vet bills and head off a sad untimely end. The following are at least 8 common household dangers for cats, so be sure to look out for them:
1- Human Foods: Grapes, raisins, avocados, garlic, and products containing xylitol (categorized as a sugar alcohol and present in small amounts in some vegetables and fruits), can seriously disable our furry friends. In addition to this chocolate when ingested by cats can cause vomiting, diarrhea, and seizures. Ensure all these foods are kept out of reach.
2- Chemicals and Poisons: These include bleach, detergents, disinfectants, antifreeze, garden fertilizers, rodent poisons. If these are ingested or inhaled by cats (even in small quantities), they can cause serious life-threatening problems and chemical burns. If for instance, disinfectant is used on kitchen cookers as well as flat surfaces like tabletops, towels should be used to dry it up immediately before cats get to walk on the surface or even lick them. Also always keep the toilet seat down as powerful chemicals are also used to keep it clean and kill germs. Furthermore, it is dangerous and sometimes catastrophic, when people mistakenly apply flea and tick products to the wrong species (products meant for dogs are used on cats and vice versa). The best way to avoid this is to read labels correctly and consult your vets before starting a flea and tick eradication program or exercise.
3- Human Medications: Prescriptions, over the counter drugs like pain killers, cold meds, anti-depressants, and dietary supplements, are probably the most dangerous category of threat in the home. Cats can grab pills from containers or eat meds accidentally dropped on the floor. So it is essential to lock them away in cabinets or places they (cats) have no access to. Childproof latches will really come in handy in case your cat is a problem solver.
4- Plants: Some plants are poisonous to cats especially lilies which causes life threatening kidney failure even in minute amounts. Holly, mistletoe, Christmas trees (used on special occasions like holidays) and Christmas tree water are all lethal to cats. Furthermore, decorations like tinsel, ribbons, fake grass, balloons, candles, snow globes, and lights should all be securely stowed away as they can cause intestinal blockages to cats if ingested. Snow globes especially contain toxic chemicals. Turkey bones as well can cause choking so food in plates should be stashed away and never left uncovered or unattended.
5- Dangerous Objects: Rubber bands, hair ties, earbuds, yarn, and dental floss. These may be harmless to us as humans but if swallowed by cats will result in intestinal blockages and even death. Plastics like cellophane bags can even choke cats. Therefore freshly bought groceries should be put away as quickly as possible and plastic bags tucked in a safe hiding place like drawers. Toys with strings should also be kept out of reach of cats.
6- Fireworks: The resulting loud sounds and bright flashes from fireworks tend to startle and frighten cats. Consequently, it is wise to be aware of this and apply prudent measures to curtail or avoid these entirely.
7- Fire Hazards: Items and products used in the home like cooking gas and gasoline for generators and cars are all potential fire hazards if not carefully handled. Gas can choke cats to death while fires will no doubt lead to fatalities. Ensure all necessary safety measures are applied. Furthermore, ensure your windows have Pet Alert stickers on them depicting which rooms have pets in them in case of a fire outbreak. This would enable emergency first responders (like firefighters) pinpoint rooms where the pets are located and rescue them.
8- Miscellaneous Hazards: These include cords of window blinds which potentially could strangle cats. These should be coiled and kept out of reach. Ensure all windows screens are securely fastened and latches locked down. Washers and dryers (washing and drying machines) should be kept closed at all times when not in use. Furthermore, as an additional safety precaution ensure you carry out visual inspection of the machines before turning them on as cats have been known to be trapped within. This would prove fatal to the cats if the machines are turned on with the pets inside. Electrical wires are another high-risk hazard, as cats are sometimes known to chew on them. If plugged to an electrical outlet this could result in electrocution. Endeavor to hide the wires under carpets or rugs or encase them in tubing and coat them with something safe that tastes horrible to cats like bitter apple spray. Provide cats with safe alternatives like chewy toys coated with a flavor delicious to cats like tuna juice or paste. Kitchen utensils used in culinary preparations are also a potential danger. This is because they more often than not have sharp, serrated or pointed edges or ends which can accidentally cut, pierce, amputate or stab cats while being used in the kitchen. Also, be safety conscious when using them to avoid tragic incidents.
by Margejane | Cat Accessories
- Bowls – Ceramic or stainless steel. Do NOT buy plastic bowls as they can harbor bacteria. Before I knew this and used plastic bowls, one of my cats got acne!
$SAVINGS TIP$ — Pet stores are usually way overpriced when it comes to pet bowls. If you have any thrift shops near you see if you can find any nice ceramic or stainless steel bowls, about one cup size, in good condition. Instead of paying $7-$9 for a ceramic bowl liked I used to, I got an great assortment of bowls for 50 to 99 cents each!
Cats only need two bowls. It’s a good idea to have some extra cat bowls on hand so you can have some in use while you wash the others.
- Toys – Every cat or kitten needs toys. Here are some toy ideas to keep your kitty happily occupied.
Boxes – Take a large box and seal 3 sides. Cut an entryway on one side. Line it with a soft blanket or towel. Put a few small toys like catnip mice or balls inside.
Empty Thread Spools – These make great toys for your cat to bat around the house.
Rolled-up Sock –It’s an old sock to you but a great toy for your kitty! Sprinkle some catnip on the sock before rolling it up and watch the fun begin.
Aluminum or Paper Balls – Take some clean unused aluminum foil or scrap paper and roll it into balls for kitty to swat around the house.
CAUTION: NEVER let your cat play with plastic bags. Cats suffocate from plastic bags every year.
A string is fine for kitty to play with as long as he/she is NEVER left unsupervised. If kitty swallows string it can tangle in the intestines and kill him, so put all string away when playtime is over.
- Nail Clippers – A simple inexpensive pet nail clipper works fine. It has a slight concave shape at the bottom of the blade. Just gently press your cat’s paw on the underside in the center and the nails should extend. Clip off the white part of the nail. NEVER clip the pink part which has a vein. If you are a newbie and are nervous about the process, visit your vet and have a vet technician demonstrate the technique for you. There are also videos on YouTube regarding this subject.
- CARRIERS – It’s an absolute must to have a good carrier so your kitty will be safe traveling by any means, not to mention you don’t want to experience the horror of losing your cat.
There are many different types of carriers.
- CARDBOARD – this should only be used if you have no other option, such as when adopting your pet and you haven’t purchased a good carrier yet. Use it once and throw it away.
- CRATE – wire crates are NOT recommended. The cat is exposed on all sides which only adds to his fear because he can’t hide.
- SOFT-SIDED – I’ll admit I’ve used and still own a soft-sided carrier for my small cats. I have spinal problems and find it easier for me to carry it from underneath rather than use the straps. I only use it for a quick trip to the vet and put a seatbelt securely around it when driving. However, I do not recommend them for extended trips (my vet is just a few blocks away.)
- PLASTIC CARRIER – This is the best type of carrier. A quality carrier will last a lifetime, is sturdy, easy to clean, and lets your cat feel secure. When you go to purchase a plastic carrier, please make sure the door to the carrier is easy to open and lock. Be very careful in your choice. Years ago I bought what appeared to be a good quality carrier and my cat escaped from it because the door came off. Thankfully I was able to grab my precious kitty. Personally, I like carriers that also have a door on the roof.
HOW TO GET YOUR CAT USED TO HIS CARRIER
Now that you know which carrier to purchase, you also need to know how to get your cat used to it. Not an easy task! Here’s some information that should help.
Your normally calm cat can go crazy when you try to put him in the carrier. The good news is with a little practice it will be much easier. The first thing to do for a cat who has no crating experience is to take the carrier and remove the door if possible. If not, prop the door open. Put the carrier on the floor. If your house is a cat-only house, put treats all around the carrier in a 3-foot circle, plus some inside the carrier. When all treats are gone, repeat the process, but this time put the treats 2 feet around the carrier and some inside the carrier. Repeat until there’s no circle and all treats are inside the carrier. When your cat goes into the carrier to eat the treats, that’s progress! For the next day or two put some treats at the rear of the carrier.
Next choose a word you will use that your cat can identify as carrier. Bed, condo, anything. Show your cat his favorite treat to get his attention. Show him the treat and keep it near his nose so he can smell it. In a joyful voice use the word you’ve chosen and guide your cat to the carrier. When he’s near the carrier, say about a foot, reward him with the treat. Lavish him with praise. Move him a few feet from his carrier and repeat the process. When he’s okay with coming that close to his carrier, place a treat on the doorway ledge. Lavish more praise and petting on your cat. After that, toss a treat inside and let your cat go get it.
NEXT – Put the door back on the carrier. Repeat the previous exercise so he doesn’t get spooked. If he gets spooked, re-teach to the carrier on command. Things should go more smoothly this time around. Don’t worry if he notices the door, don’t fret. It may take another day or two but this method works.
Once your cat goes into the carrier, quietly close the door and lock it, all the while speaking softly and cheerfully, praising your cat. Throw some treats in the carrier, and then in a few minutes open the carrier door and let him come out if he wants. From then on your cat should go into the carrier without a problem.
by Margejane | Cat Food & Treats, Cat Health
When cats age, warmth, ease and convenience become priorities. There are things you can do to make life comfortable for your aging cat. Conveniently located food bowls and litter boxes are essential.
As cats age nerves and brain cells die off forever, leaving the messages sent from the brain to the body and back taking the long road. Once the message is received the body might not want to do what was requested. As nerve and brain cells die the senses become dull. In turn, vision gets blurry; the sense of smell lessens, as does the hearing. Cats cope with these changes – they really don’t have a choice.
But old doesn’t mean dead. Older cats still like to play, still are affectionate and want your company.
Here are things you can do to make life better for your senior cat.
- Provide water – you cat needs plenty of easily accessible freshwater. Cats are susceptible to kidney and urinary problems, and drinking plenty of water is very helpful in combating these.
- Chubby kitty? – Once your cat reaches the double digits, you should weigh him once a month. If there is any drastic weight change up or down more than 15%, you should contact your vet. If there’s weight loss when there has been no change in diet it may indicate kidney, dental, thyroid or other problems. Get your cat to the vet ASAP.
- Being overweight strains a cat’s entire system and makes it more likely kitty will get diabetes, heart problems, and if he needs surgery it’s more likely there will be surgical complications. You may need to change your cat’s diet. Consult with your veterinarian for recommendations. Get baseline blood workups. It is a good idea to see your vet twice a year.
- Check your cat’s breath – If your cat’s breath is bad it could indicate a real problem – gum disease or infection, a toothache. Check your kitty’s mouth every couple of weeks – look for inflamed swollen gums or foul odor. There could be more problems. If you suspect a problem, please see your veterinarian right away.
The older cat needs more convenient surroundings. Here are some ways you can help.
- Keep water and food bowls on the floor near where he sleeps.
- Always have a nice sleeping spot that is private, warm and cozy.
BOARDING
If at all possible, please do NOT board your senior cat. Boarding is very stressful for any cat but especially stressful for older cats. Even if it is an excellent facility, the stress is still there and in some cases can be enough to cause the senior cat to become very ill, sometimes fatally ill.
A pet sitter is so much better for your cat. Your cat is most comfortable being in his own home. A good pet sitter can offer companionship and affection in your absence. Kitty can sleep on your bed, relax, and be happy. (For information regarding how to find a good pet sitter, please refer to “Cat Sitting” under my article entitled “If your Cat Gets Lost.”)
by Margejane | Cat Health
Losing your cat is truly a horrible experience. What should you do? Speaking from experience – when a cat of mine got out, a trap with yummy food got her back (after first trapping two feral cats!)
Okay, …here’s what to do:
- Make a flyer with a clear photo – put the date lost and where your cat was last seen, plus any markings on your cat. Put several phone numbers on the flyer – your cell, work number, and home phone if you have a landline.
- Contact vets, shelters and police – make sure they all have flyers. Call to check if they have heard anything. Be pleasant and persistent.
- Offer a Reward – A reward is very motivating, so make it a good amount.
- Post your flyers – post flyers everywhere – pet stores, grocery stores, convenience stores, busy intersections, anywhere people go.
- Ask kids to help – you can ask your neighborhood kids to be on the lookout. Give them flyers. Let them know if one of them finds your kitty they’ll be paid a nice reward.
CAT SITTING
It’s very important to find a great and reliable cat sitter for those times you’ll be away. Tasks a cat sitter does include coming to your home at least twice a day, or in some cases stays at your house, feeds your kitty, cleans the litterbox, socializes with the cats, and grooms them.
Other tasks could include taking in the mail, watering your plants, turning lights on and off, setting your alarm, etc. A good sitter is priceless.
There are several ways to find a good cat sitter. Personal recommendations are one way to start. You can also Google “cat sitter services” or “Pet Sitter Services.” Before contacting them check them out with the Better Business Bureau. Contact your vet and other vets in your area – often there are good vet technicians who do pet sitting for extra income.
When interviewing cat sitters, note if the cat likes the sitter or not. Ask questions – Experience – how long have you been pet sitting? Ask for references (from a vet or other pet professional service, plus previous customers.) Are they bonded?
Have a list of specific instructions of what you need done – number of feedings per day, how many litterbox cleanings a day you want, any plants that need watering, mail to pick up, etc.
NOTE: I cannot in good conscience recommend boarding cats unless you absolutely have no other choice. I am not saying there aren’t any good boarding places, because I am sure they are. When we are away we board our dog, but we know they are a good one, and our dog loves to play with the other dogs. However, this is not the case for most cats. It is extremely stressful for cats.
Another reason I say this comes from personal experience. Years ago, I was going on vacation. I wanted a cat sitter for my two cats, but my then-boyfriend refused to let someone into the apartment while we were away. Since it was his apartment, I had no choice. I boarded the cats at a brand new vet clinic near the apartment. I toured the place and found it to be very clean with spacious cages. What could possibly go wrong?
Upon my return home a week later I noticed my male cat, Sam, didn’t seem right. He was sneezing and sniffling, as was my other cat, Pinky. While Pinky was better in a day, it was very different for Sam. He stopped eating and drinking, stopped using the litterbox. He was lying on his back, mouth open and tongue hanging out. I rushed him to the vet’s office where I boarded him. They apologized and told me that all treatment would be free, the least they could do! They also told me that unbeknownst to them, a woman had brought in her four cats for boarding at the same time I did. One of her cats had an upper respiratory infection that spread like wildfire to the other cats.
For a while, it was touch and go. I had to take Sam to the vet every night and force-feed him diluted baby food and water plus medications. Thankfully, Sam recovered.
Bottom line: my personal belief is if you keep your healthy cats at home, they won’t be exposed to sick ones. After that, we had a good vet tech catsit.
by Margejane | Cat Accessories
Giving your cat medication is usually pretty unpleasant. Fortunately, there are methods that can make the process easier.
Giving Your Cat a Pill
Sometimes giving your cat a pill may be as easy as hiding it in a bit of his favorite cat food or a small ball of cream cheese. Pill Pockets is another possible option – it’s a soft treat that is open on one end to put a pill in.
Cats are sometimes too smart for their own good and know you’re up to something they won’t like, and they will be completely uncooperative. In this case, another method needs to be tried. Get a large, thick bath towel. Wrap the kitty up in the towel until only his head is poking out. If you have someone to help you, so much the better, but you can do this on your own. Put the cat bundle on your lap with its head facing away from you. Reach over and using one hand, open your cat’s mouth. Reach over his nose and pressing the lips in, just behind the long fangs in front. Pressing at that point causes the cat to open his mouth.
Now, with your other hand, put the pill down on one side of the tongue. This will make the pill go down better. Once the pill is in his mouth, close his mouth, point the nose upward and stroke his throat until he swallows. If he starts licking his mouth or his nose, that means he’s swallowed. Keep him bundled and wait a few seconds because he may not have swallowed the pill yet and will spit it out.
Another method is what’s known as a pill gun or pill popper. It’s a plastic “plunger” with a rubber tip on the end where you can insert the pill while you keep your fingers out of harm’s way (your kitty’s teeth.) You can get one from your vet and are very inexpensive.
While your cat is securely bundled in a thick towel, insert the pill popper into his mouth. Be sure NOT to put it further than you can see. Once he swallowed the pill, lavish praise on him, give him a treat. Then slowly unwrap and release him. If you’re nervous about doing this, ask your vet to give you a demonstration.
If the pill doesn’t need to be swallowed whole, you can try crushing it and mixing it in food. You can buy a pill crusher or put the pill in between two paper towels and crush it with a hammer. Another option is to crush it with a spoon. Mix it well with your cat’s favorite and most flavorful food, maybe one with some gravy to make it tastier.
How to Give Liquid Medication
Dispensing liquid medication is far more difficult than pills. I have to laugh (although it wasn’t funny at the time) of how my late cat Wally who was as sweet as sugar, let the pink liquid medicine I thought he swallowed come out of his little drooling mouth. I wish I was better informed at the time so I’m happy to share what I have learned since then. Being a foster mom has its perks!
First, get a syringe without a needle from your vet. Spoons don’t work and are very messy – don’t use them. With a syringe, you are able to measure the exact amount of medication required, as well as giving you the ability to dispense a little at a time. Ask your vet to show you how to do this when he gives you the medication.
Wrap kitty in a thick towel the same way you would do if administering a pill. Speak softly to your cat and then reach over his head and place your thumb and index finger behind each of his big canine teeth. Your cat will open his mouth when you apply pressure there. Be 100% ready to insert the tip of the syringe into the corner of his mouth and depress the plunger. Put the syringe down and let your cat close his mouth. Point his head upward and stroke his throat so that he will swallow.
NOTE: Be careful NOT to squirt too much of the medication down your cat’s throat, because he might inhale some, which could potentially cause serious lung problems.
NOTE: Be sure NOT to lift your cat’s head up when giving him the medication – this could cause it to go down his windpipe.
NOTE: If your cat starts coughing and/or panicking, STOP EVERYTHING. Let him cough, let him spit out medication. Once he is over that, try again.
Another way to try giving liquid medication is to put a little on the top of his front paws. Your cat should hopefully lick it off.
How to Apply Topical Medication
Put a dab of margarine or petroleum jelly on each front paw. Licking it off should help your cat to relax. While he’s occupied put the topical medication where it needs to be. If all else fails buy a “cone of shame” for your kitty to wear around his neck. He won’t like wearing it but be assured he’ll get over it once it’s removed. The bottom line is, he’s got to heal.
I hope this information helps you when medicating your kitty. Be sure to consult with your veterinarian before attempting to give your cat medication to ensure you are doing things correctly.
by Margejane | Cat Health
So you’ve decided to get a kitten or cat. Congratulations! All cats and kittens are beautiful by their very nature, but it’s very important to know how to choose the right feline for YOU.
In the most ideal situation, kittens stay with their mother and littermates until they are 3-4 months old. Kittens are not born naturally sociable so it’s important that they are socialized in their early months by being lovingly handled and getting used to normal household sounds like a television, vacuum cleaners or little children.
In my experience as a foster mom for kittens, I have fostered litters where kittens have hissed at me and been extremely antisocial. Wrapping them in baby blankets and holding them close to me for extended periods of time has transformed them into sweet, affectionate babies who purr when held. This socialization process gets them ready to be ideal family pets.
When you visit a shelter or a foster’s house, observe your surroundings. It should look and smell clean. If the mother cat is available, go meet her. She has great influence on her babies, if she is sweet and loving, that’s a good indication the kittens will be, too.
When you meet the kittens, it’s a good idea to just observe them at first. Kittens who are naturally attracted to people are the best pets. Happy, socialized kittens will enjoy being handled. Kittens who get panicky and try to jump out of your hands shouldn’t be chosen. Even though that cute little kitten cowering in the corner catches your attention, skip it. I hate to say that because I believe every kitten deserves a loving home, but I feel it’s my responsibility to educate you, my valued readers, on how to choose a kitten or cat who will be sweet and loving – a joy to have in your home.
Make sure you choose a healthy kitten. They are active, have bright clear eyes, a glossy coat, and no nasal discharge. Body build should be lean without being scrawny or potbellied.
If you don’t find your dream kitten your first time out, don’t be discouraged. There are so many darling kittens out there. I highly recommend Petfinder.com. You can enter the type(s) of kittens you might like, plus the area you live in, and Petfinder will come up with photos and bios of kittens plus the names of local animal shelters and rescue groups.
If an adult cat is more to your liking, that’s also a great choice. Adult cats are easier than kittens, because basically what you see is what you get – their personalities are fully formed. One exception is an in-heat or pregnant female, because her personality may change once she’s spayed. Look for a cat who is playful and friendly. Your cat will most likely get more relaxed once they get home because noisy shelters can be stressful.
In closing, just remember – be patient, know what type of cat you want (although you may fall in love with a sweet cat who is totally different than the one you imagined bringing home) and above all, be patient. That great cat is out there for you!
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